Tailgate Window Lifter Channel

[Berkeley]

Howdy, all. My '88 Grand Wagoneer tailgate window lifter channel finally broke, rusted to pieces. I received the replacement part today, but no instructions. Are there instructions?

It looks like the trick is to get the whole glass out of the gate through the top. Correct? I'll try removing the gate lip seals and see what happens. Hope I don't screw up too bad!

[Brent]

There are no instructions. This is pretty easy. What you want to do is roll your tailgate window down, open your tailgate, take off the access panel, get in there and remove the window lifter clips that hold the regulator onto the lifter, take the window out of the tailgate. If you have a defroster, don't forget to remove the wires here.

Then you want to remove the old lifter (or pieces of it), clean the window, install the channel seal (or silicone - however you decided to do this is fine), then install the new lifter. This is done by tapping it on with a hammer (a dead blow hammer works best). Be VERY CAREFUL doing this. Once that is on and centered, you want to reinstall it back in the tailgate using the new clips.

Hope this helps, if you need anymore help, let me know.

Thanks!

[Berkeley]

Maybe this thread can serve as instructions for future customers. I'm sure it will be easy the 2nd time I do it, but for the novice, it's daunting. Your instructions above are helpful, but I still have some questions.

I read your post after the Wipe Strips and Window were already out, so maybe I did it the hard way. Do I have to remove the Tailgate Wipe Strips?

I removed the glass by first lowering the glass, then opening the gate, then carefully raising the glass (had to clamp the safety interlock). With the window all the way up, it was easy to remove the regulator clips. Actually, one side had removed itself. I had to lower the window a little to get the arms off the Lifter Channel.

The new Channel was bent, but I managed to straighten it. I bought the Tailgate Window Lifter Seal, too. It sounds like I could fill the channel with silicone instead, but I'll use the Seal. Should it be lubricated first? I imagine it would be helpful. How about a water-based lube? Dish soap? Nothing?

One wire for the defroster was broken inside. The connector on the other side was melted together, with solder dripping. I had to cut the wire to remove the glass. If there's melting plastic and hot solder involved, I'm not sure I want to repair it. It would be nice to have the defroster, though. What do you think?

One more thing... a random part at the bottom of the door. It's a cylindrical metal bushing, about 5/8" long, about 5/8" in diameter, with a 1/4" hole though. Does this sound like a tailgate part?

[84woody]

I have a service manual for GW's. if you are still having trouble installing the channel, I can see if i can find the instructions and see about scanning them and emailing them to you or faxing them. I took my window channel out last year, if I remember correctly, the bushing you are asking about is a standoff for the gear motor assembly for the electric tailgate window. The bushing provides enough clearance for mounting the gear motor assembly away from the tailgate body panel. I also have the parts manual for 81-86 Jeep products. I would think that the tailgate assembly from 81-91 GW's did not change too much so if you want, i can try and provide you the work package for that too. It might be a little helpful locating where the bushing goes.

[Berkeley]

Foul! Is it just me, or is there a manufacturing problem with the lifter channels? I was unable to install the circular star clips which hold the channel onto the arms. The oval slider thingies are too thick. The spring on the arm is compressed, but there's just no way the clips can engage the slot on the pin. I measured old vs. new channels, and the difference is ~0.27" (old) vs. ~0.3" (new). Visually, there's a significant difference between how the original ovals are bent (almost completely bent over) vs. how the re-manufactured ovals are bent (nearly vertical). I'm breaking out the grinder... I've got to get the window back in tonight.

84Woody... thanks for the info. You're exactly correct about the bushing. I checked, though, and all five bushings/screws are in place. There's evidence, however, that the tailgate has been apart in the past. One screw was very loose, and the bushing was probably left over from the last time the screw came out.

[Ryan]

Berkeley, I had read your thread and the last post you had looked like you understood everything and didn't have any more questions. Based on the post before that, here are some comments:

1. Remove the wipestrips
2. channel: don't lubricate the channel, but you can lubricate the metal posts where the clips attach
3. Defroster: clean the metal ends with some dish soap and water or a cloth with some grease remover....then use solder and drip it on to the original spots.
4. metal bushing: it's a spacer that goes between the regulator and the outer part of the tailgate shell.
5. metal clips: use a pair of angled needlenose pliers to push down and get them to attach.
6. metal posts on regulator arms: use some steel wool to remove any scale / rust / dirt / debris, and use some white lithium grease or hub grease to lubricate it. This will help keep it from binding in the future.

[Berkeley]

Thanks, Ryan. The wipe strips were a pain, so I'm glad I was supposed to take them off.

About the defroster: I don't think I was clear. The wires are still attached to the glass. The problem is with the plastic connectors. One of the plastic connectors is melted together, and there's what looks like solder dripping from it. It's impossible to open, so I had to cut the wire. It wouldn't be difficult to fix, so I suppose I should give it a try. My hesitation is that I assume the plastic melted because of a past short. I don't want to reconnect it, only to have it short out and melt again. What do you think?

One last item: I found it impossible to push the retaining clip onto the arm pin. I had to grind a lot off to make it work. Have you had trouble with this part (Tailgate Window Lifter Channel) before?

[Ryan]

Wire: test it and check for any shorts. If the plastic is melted, there is a reason and it should be researched & fixed before moving on.

Arm Clip: haven't had a problem with these on any of my rigs (4 so far). I have had to clean up the posts and spend some time working them on, but they've all gone on without grinding or removing any parts.

[talntar]

the channel i got from the dealer,asumming bj's are the same,had the slides for the pins offset a bit.making it possable to put it on backwards